Final comments

Walking in Latvia is always therapeutic. It is also a personal homage to Anita's "homeland" and an attempt to understand more about the country and its people. I am not sure that I have any particular insights from the recent trip. However, I move at a pace which makes observation and reflection possible. This time, I have passed through largely farmland and forest with few larger settlements. It always seems like going back in time to a more simple life, though probably a fairly harsh one for many people.

Route map

Evidence of the Soviet era is always present - abandoned factories and barrack style accommodation in the typical stark white brick can be found anywhere in the countryside. What purpose they served is unclear - whether they provided employment for the locals or an imported population that was simply exploiting the Latvian resources. When I have walked with Janis Apsitis (Lija's second cousin), I have always enjoyed his informed commentary.

This walk was physically demanding - four ultra-marathons in four days. The first 42.2km (the marathon distance) took 6hrs 21mins on day one and 6hrs 29mins on the third day. Apart from the 2 runs in Hyde Park, it is the only structured exercise I have done since I left Melbourne on 16 June. I am hoping to compete in the Melbourne Marathon in October with the goal of a sub 4 hour time. I have only run two half-marathons in under 2 hours and in 2011 the Melbourne Marathon results show that only 4 male runners in my age group (65+) achieved a time under 4 hours. There is much more work to be done.

Half marathon - Marysville 2011

I was, yet again, helped by glorious Latvian weather, this year apparently, uncharacteristically fine during the period I was walking. There were some desultory drops of rain as I approached Skaistkalne. Otherwise it was always fine (both day and night) and on the last 3 days, hot and generally sunny. I got sunburnt on the second day having left out sunscreen from my "must carry" list. I had to buy and carry both sunscreen and after-sun cream from then on. I compensated by throwing out the anti-mozzie spray, though in the forest sections they were always threatening.

This year I walked (and ran) in trail shoes - similar to runners but presumably slightly sturdier. After much agonising, I wore them for the 100km of the North Face event without ill effect. Previously I had always worn my Scarpa walking boots, including on my 6 Oxfam walks and the previous walks in Latvia. I think I am now converted. I suffered no blisters. My feet were sore after the first day but had settled down by the last. My legs were a little heavy yesterday and I still feel quite tired and a bit sleep-deprived.

I also carried my 20 litre Salomon pack this year rather than the 35 litre pack I used on the 3 previous Latvian walks. As a consequence, I carried about 6 or 7kg rather than the 12-15kg of previous years. This meant I could jog at times and perhaps generally walk a bit faster. Over 4 days and with fine weather, I got away with this minimal gear, though I changed socks on 3 days and my shorts every second day and carried a rogaining first aid kit which I didn't open.

I had hoped that Lija would accompany me, riding Gunta's bike. That didn't happen, perhaps fortuitously because it would have made the trip extremely challenging for both of us. Our plan is to compete in a rogaine together in Australia. Because of her trip to Latvia, Lija missed out on her school's Exodus program involving hiking and white water rafting.

Thanks to Lija for posting the earlier blogs and solving a number of technical problems like transferring the photos from Juris's phone. Thanks also for Anita's frequent phone calls and text messages. Also for the comments on the blog particularly from Sally, Janite and Linite. Also to the messages of support from Janis and Matiss Apsitis (and the sheep who went "mee mee"), Paul Bormanis, Juris and Selga Benkis (and for the loan of a phone and technical advice), Ilze and Gunars Nagels, Esmeralda Ermale, Daina McDonald, Paul Svilans, Janis Dunnicliffs, Janis Laurs, Richard Harms, Hannah Christensen, Ojars Greste and Imants Freibergs. Thanks yet again to the co-habitants in our Riga home, Gunta and Ziedonis for their unfailing support for even the craziest schemes and the lengths they go to in order to solve the trickiest problems.

What next? In a couple of days, another Australia (Canadian, honorary Latvian), James Whyte, husband of Amanda Hirst and father of Annika, plans to run from Liepaja to Ape! A massive undertaking which will take 2 or 3 weeks. James is planning to travel on the main roads and average about 30 or so kilometres a day. His progress can be followed on Facebook. I wish him all the very best for a safe and enjoyable journey.

For me, there are two walks I have thought about although both would be major undertakings - the first from Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, through Latgale province in Latvia to Tartu, the university town in Estonia. The second, at Vilis Vitols's suggestion, the Krisjanis Barons trail from Tartu into Latvia, meandering about to finish in the north-west at Dundega. Each would be about 700km long and I would like Anita and Lija to at least come part of the way.

2013 is a song festival year in Latvia and also the next world rogaining championships will be held in Russia about 50 or 100 km from Latvia's eastern border. So it is likely we will spend an extended period here next year. A lengthy walk might therefore be on the cards. In the meantime, I have another blog almost ready to go - an account of my first trip to Latvia with Anita in 1987. I wrote a detailed account at the time and it has recently been typed (thank you Hannah). It would be illustrated with the photos from our trip. But first I must show it to family members in Latvia as essentially it is a fairly personal account. No promises, but perhaps in early August the first postings might appear.

For the moment, signing off from Riga.